2-PIECE CONVERSION

[Bobmeister]

can you show us a copy of the article?

Anybody that wants the Primitive Archer article, PM me and I will e-mail it to you.

Bob

[angelstaff]

I will, Archer original article,
thanks
Angel

[MOUNTER]

Great job BOB! I have that same article from 6/7 years ago, Always thought about trying it ... Guess it works!

[4nolz]

Anybody that wants the Primitive Archer article, PM me and I will e-mail it to you.

Bob

I sure would and thanks! MHustonDVM@aol.com

[tjdeerslayer37]

can you feel the handle flex at all? that is really awesome!

id like to do one like that with maybe a little beefed up handle and do it just like that picture of the article with a bolt in the grip from front and one from the back it would just be a matter of having enough material there for strength id imagine.

oh and how about limb alignment? did it throw it out of whack at all?

[Bobmeister]

TJ, so far the joint is rock solid, no flexing at all. This one's only a 38#er, but this winter I'll probably do a couple on the one limb at a time form and make them hunting weight bows to put them to the test. I don't think you could break this connection, the fiberglass ended up being 1/8 thick that's alot of glass. As far as the limbs being in line there was no change there, but yeah, you have to be carefull especially when its a retro fit. The next one will be from scratch out of a blank.

Also, in the article those aren't bolts in the handle, they are sheet rock screws to temporarily hold it together to get a couple small wraps of glass around the joint and then to let it set up. Then you take the screws out and finish wrapping the glass to thickness. I didn't do it that way. I used a small drop of CA glue to hold it together. Didn't seem too smart to put screw holes in it and end up with voids.

[Sixby]

I just did my first one on a 55 lb carbon 64 in D and r. We'll see if it holds up. I just came in form the shop about 5 min ago and it was getting dry. That stuff puts off heat and smells just like bondo. bob I see the smooth on cans. Did you use eopoxy? I used the polyester and heavy fiberglass cloth. This stuff sets up really faxt. It took me almost a full package of the cloth and 8 oz of resin.I did have problems getting it stuck together with cyro and getting the limbs in alignment. I finally strung the limbs and held the thing in place until it took. Like forever for some reason. putting the phenolic on the endls like that threw it all out of whack for some reason. I did have to sand the ends enough to get them flat after I bandsawed it. I couldn't have glued the pads on falt otherwise. but I was really careful , (scared) I did not want to ruin this bow.If this works out its going to be nice. I'll psot some pics of it if I can keep the string on . LOL If not I'm going to cry. God bless you all and thanks for the build along Bob. I took full advantage of it. Steve

[Sixby]

OK, I just came in and I ground it flush and tried and tried and tried to get it to come loose. finally I got a six lb sledge and really nailed the C clamp and it came apart. This thing is gorgeous. I over built it up so I could shape a palm swell ect. and man it looks great. My thinnest place is 1/8 in and most of it is a good quarter in thick.I'm thinking a guy could sand this stuff really smooth. Stipple it and then paint it and finish over the paint and it would look great without the leather. Butttttttttttt I'll probably do the leather. Another thing is that you could use colering in the poly mix. I understand that artists pastels are supposed to work and I have a bunch of them. But I will try that out on a 2xfour first. Thanks Bob and God bless you, Steve

[Bobmeister]

Steve, I used polyester resin on the build-along, on the second one that I did I used aero-marine epoxy resin #300 and carbon cloth. I thought it would be a lot stronger than bondo polyester stuff .

[jwillis]

I just saw this build along after Sixby's thread showing his. This is an awesome build along. Great job. Jim