Pathfinder Buildalong

[TimZeigler]

I did this buildalong a while back when I built my first bow. It was posted on some of the other sites before I became a regular here. Some of the processes since this build have been changed, and some are still being experimented with. Just thought I'd try to contribute my to help some of the novices like myself that may be looking for some info.

Tim

[TimZeigler]

Design is based on Binghams takedown recurve plans, with my own riser design.

Specs so far: Black Walnut riser, white micarta accents, black walnut lams, and clear glass.

First some shots of my workshop/garage/storage/laundry room. Its a little tight, but worth it. This goes to show you that you don't have to have a designated workshop or anything fancy.

[TimZeigler]

Glueing up the riser I mixed more than enough epoxy just to be sure. Using Smooth-On is a slippery situation.



Using the bandsaw I riped out a 1/4" wide piece from the riser block. I rough sanded the micarta, and reassembled the riser. Baked at 180 degrees for 6 hours, and cooled overnight.


After clean up on the my Rigid Belt/Spindle sander. Great piece or equipment.

[TimZeigler]

I don't have pics of the form build but its really not difficult. Here is my finished limb form.



Make sure the center line is truly the center, check and double check. Check from both sides and the line should fall out identical.


I used a compound mitre saw to cut my pads. (Changed that process, and now use a table saw and sled, works much better).


Using 2 pieces of glass, the intersection where they cross is directly above the center line of the riser. Learnt that one from Hera's buildalong.


A good support system is required when building.

[TimZeigler]

Adjusting my drill press table, I set up the correct angle for the limb pad drilling. I won't do it this way again, unless I can find a better way of securing the riser block. I had problems with it sliding once I got it centered on the drill. (Update: I built a jig to hold my riser at the correct angle so that I don't have to continuously reset my table to 90 degrees after every build).




After the screws and alignment pinds were installed. ( here you can see my holes were just a little shallow, or I used to much epoxy that prevented them from going all the way down; lesson learned)

The angle of the camera makes the inserts look offcenter, but in fact they are right in line.

[TimZeigler]

To make the limb template, I used thin gauge steel that I picked up from Lowes. Thin enough to be flexible but not to thin that it would crease, or be easily deformed. Measured 1.5 inches wide and ripped it using a metal cutting blade on the band saw. Make sure you find your center line so that you can line up your template accurately.





I used my 1 inch belt sander to clean up the edges and get it down to the rough limb measurements. (that little 1" belt can hawg off some material quick)



Finished template

[TimZeigler]

While I had my metal blade on I went ahead and cut out my riser template as well. I used 1/8" steel for this one. I drew up my design in Visio which took some time but turned out pretty nice.

Back profile


Side profile

[BK in TEXAS]

Very cool. Build-alongs are great!

BK

[TimZeigler]

Its good to get the youngins involved as well, my youngest boy was all to eager to help dad.



I sanded my fades down to near paper thickness, I probibly could have gotten them just a hair thinner.

Before


Before top/After bottom


Dry run layup; glass first, then parallel, wedge, taper, then back glass.



Taped down


Fadeout


With the top on, at 55lbs.


Fadeout with pressure applied (thought I could compensate with extra taping to close the gap, lesson learn: the way it dry runs is usually how it will appear glued. It wasn't quite noticeable except for a close look)

[angelstaff]

we will see over? LAMS measures, and weight