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Drilled Arrows

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Re: Drilled Arrows

Postby Bender » Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:32 pm

Cool! So there IS some evidence that a tapered arrow also recovers faster. I didn't discount that as not being the case. Just didn't know of any evidence to support it. You mention the breast taper and the barrel. Did Elmer do anything with the nock end taper? It seems to be the most common tapered arrow today.
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Re: Drilled Arrows

Postby Hank » Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:25 pm

I think saying that an arrow recovers quicker making it fly flatter is a guess to explain an action they cannot see, but to explain results they can observe. Tapering and/or barreling effects FOC and the FOC factor maybe playing the most important role in arrow height impact.

Not saying the tapering/barrelling isn't doing what they say it is, just not sure it really is. I think some high speed film might be the best way to explain the different results with the different styles of arrows.
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Re: Drilled Arrows

Postby AROMAKR » Sun Jan 08, 2012 12:04 am

Bender:
Elmer, tested all forms of shaft tapering and concluded that the barrel and breast taper were the two best taper's and did his final testing with those two taper's
Hank:
Yes tapering an arrow effects FOC but it moves the weight more towards the center of the shaft in regard to the barreled and breasted shaft. But most important it removes weight for the ends of the arrow, which will allow the shaft to stop oscillating faster. The faster a shaft begins spinning on its axis the less friction it will have.

Its basic high school Physic's
one of the first laws you learn. A object in motion tends to stay in motion and an object at rest tends to stay at rest. The heavier that object is the more the law applies, so they really could explain why the arrow did what it does.
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Re: Drilled Arrows

Postby teagus » Thu Feb 09, 2012 2:18 pm

I just stumbled upon this thread today.

My first longbow was a Martin ML-16 purchased from David. With it I bought a dozen Hawkwinds.
I saw the fixture he used and watched the process. They were the best I have ever shot. If you check arrow spine on a few thousand shafts out of the box, they are pretty close to what Rose City says they are. Grain weight on the other hand is all over the map. David's Hawkwinds killed two birds with one drilling. The FOC moves forward and he could get a higher yield of grain matched shafts out of a batch. If you buy a hundred or five hundred shafts and weigh them, you get the basic bell curve. Hollowing lets you play with weight without changing spine. The hollow part is a tube structurally. That was 20 years ago. To this day I still have the rear end of an arrow from that batch. Building a fixture is still on that list of things to do. I believe David came down with Lyme's and dropped off the radar. If you hit a nock with another arrow, the arrow is toast.
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Re: Drilled Arrows

Postby dragon29 » Wed Feb 29, 2012 5:44 am

CarolinaBob wrote:Been sick last week so poking around on the Web. Found an article about Frank San Marco. Found out he used to shoot drilled out arrows made by: David Ellenbogen, Rivendell Archery. Anyone ever shot any of those or the ones made by Bill Matlock?

I have shot those arrows from David last year. I saw very little difference. Over rated! Also the nock is a pain to glue on straight at times.
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Re: Drilled Arrows

Postby whump » Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:23 pm

Whump sez; so the discussion shifted from drilled to tapered and I would have to say a tapered shaft recovers a little faster and it reduces rear-end weight some so you benefit from a slightly higher foc. In a hunting situation I liked the tapered arrows better because I felt it gave me an edge on a cold morning when I might have a bad release or a short draw . The higher foc and clearance on a bad release or short draw is beneficial. So if you are tapering your shafts I would continue to do so.

I shot a 4pt one morning about 10am and I had been sitting motionless for about 4 hours at 20 degrees. On the release I saw the oak shaft tail wag like crazy headed to the deer.I was either so frozen I short drew or released crappy.
I did not get a complete pass thru but I had a stick out that the deer broke off on the run. He only traveled 30yds before collapsing. I was pissed about the shaft because I had killed a turkey with it a few weeks before and it was a good flying oak arrow. When I was shooting red Oak shafts I started back tapering for the sole purpose of reducing weight . It was not uncommon to have arrow weights over 750gns before tapering. I found out it did have flight benefits and I attributed most of that to the lighter tail end and the heavier front end which automatically helps your arrow fly better. Then later I read where paradox was affected so the benefits were 2 fold. Sorry for the picture quality they were cell phone pics but at least my feet are not in the picture. . Hunt safe.
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deerx.jpg
The 4pt that broke off the shaft.
deerx.jpg (52.05 KiB) Viewed 5206 times
turkey1.jpg
If you look close the arrow is sticking in the back of the turkey almost between the wings p 18lb gobbler with 2 beards 10" and 8" This turkey was taken from an open stand position from about 12ft high so the arrow passed thru and stuck in the ground in front of the turkey preventing a complete pass thru. He walked about 10yds before collapsing. Both deer and turkey were shot with Magnus 1 heads.
turkey1.jpg (39.21 KiB) Viewed 5206 times
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