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Adjusting nock-set & tiller to change impact?

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Adjusting nock-set & tiller to change impact?

Postby Jim Casto Jr » Sun Dec 23, 2007 9:06 am

Many of you may already know that about 6 months ago, after fighting target panic for 30 years, I switched to shooting left handed (non-dominant side). I’m doing very well but have been pondering.

For years I always shot bows in the 180 to 185 fps range, and MADE my point on be 30 yards. Well, when I switched to lefty I was shooting a foot high at 30 yards. To get back to that 30-yard, point-on “feel” I had to weight my arrows. Now I’m shooting in 165 fps range.

I’ve read a lot of folks, especially Hank, talking about setting their bows up to shoot where they look. I assume that involves moving the plate in or out, and nock-set up and down, etc.

So the questions are are:
1) Can I move the nock-set up to get back to my 185 fps 30-yard point-on?
2) How much would changing the tiller +/- have on changing arrow impact?
3) Just how much can a fellow expect to “un-tune” his bow without experiencing problems?

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"Form is everything."
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Re: Adjusting nock-set & tiller to change impact?

Postby Feral Donkey » Sun Dec 23, 2007 5:30 pm

1. That depends on how much you're trying to move things. If your nock set was a little high with your faster setup, you can bring it down some until you start having problems crashing the ass-end of your arrow into the shelf or rest.

2. Changing the tiller to move point of impact is something that does work but I've found there's a relationship between how and where you grab the bow and string in relation to the height of the rest. When you get the limbs timed right, it seems the bow is in a "sweet spot", quiets way down, and feels dead in the hand. I've found you can move +/-1/8" to 3/16" with the Black Sheep and about +/-1/8" or less with the Firefly. I don't know what's going to happen with your riser that's 2" shorter yet. I've never monkeyed with a 17" riser so I don't know. But as you move out of where your bows wants it's tiller to be to, it'll start complaining in the form of noise and funny vibrations.

Just watch that stringwalking video and listen to those nice quiet bows. :lol:

3. That depends on a whole bunch of variables. You'll just have to tinker and find out. There's endless numbers of combinations of brace height, nock point, tiller, rest type, string material and strand count, and on and on and on..... I say try some different stuff out and see what you can come up with. I think you may be able to move your tiller maybe 1/16" more positive at first and see what that does for you. Then maybe move the nock point down a thread. Then you should notice a difference. If it's still quiet, and it's not going where you want it, try going positive another 1/16". Then maybe go to a faster string.
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