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Re: ILF Tuning Madness! Help!

PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 10:05 pm
by Bender
Yeah, I'd like to have one. If nothing else just so I can say I have have one. But all my discretionary income for archery goes into going to shoots and my longbows.

Re: ILF Tuning Madness! Help!

PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 5:36 am
by Yohon
LOL.....Chad you can keep all them numbers straight with serving sizes and material numbers and not screw it up....tiller on an ILF is a piece of cake. Aint but two measurements I've ever messed with 1/8" positive and even tiller and most time I set it and forget it......that shouldn't scare you :lol: :lol: :lol:

Re: ILF Tuning Madness! Help!

PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 7:45 pm
by Fuzzy Dog
FWIW, I have both the 17" and 19" Titans and the 19" Pinnacle - at 40# there isn't a damn one of them that will shoot a .400 arrow where it belongs, much less a .340. If you're working on 3D get a set of Entrada Ultralight 600's put 125 gr points in them and they should hit about where you want. Then, to the extent they don't, leave the fucking limbs along and work on your rest position or side plate firmness and thickness until they hit exactly where you want - operator error may make that difficult, but then you should be able to tell when the arrow screws up the shot and when you do.

Once you get that set up flying right, try a 500 spine with 145 or 175 up front for a hunting arrow - I like the Beman ICS Bowhunters for that purpose.

BTW I'm not a fan of bareshaft tuning. To me it seems like a waste of time, given that you're going to fletch the damn things anyway, so you might as well tune them fletched. Just use hot melt on the inserts so you can pull them and cut the arrow if you need to. I don't remember what you said about your draw length, but at 40# you shouldn't need to cut the Entradas at all. Nothing really bad happens if you leave them too long - if you cut them too short, they get over-spined in a hurry.

Re: ILF Tuning Madness! Help!

PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 8:37 pm
by Bender
Amusing. When I shot carbons I used that same exact arrow out of a 43# LB.

You know Fuzzy, on the face of it you're right, why bother if you're going to fletch them anyway? And when it comes to tuning/bareshafting woodies its even more obvious. The best you can do with wood, no matter how precisely you match the damned things, is just work on getting the best possible average that will make most of the arrows in the set shoot/group together.

BUT consider this. It really ISN'T a waste of time. By getting both bare and fletched arrows so well tuned that they group together regardless of the presence, or absence of fletching, you create an arrow that can be more accurate and can have better cast and transfer of energy. If arrow flight isn't as good as you can make it, a bunch of energy is lost to drag as the fletching tries to correct it.

Yeah, PITA, but I actually kinda like going through tuning. But then again I also like cold toilet seats and dental work without anesthesia.

Re: ILF Tuning Madness! Help!

PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 6:21 am
by hawghunter2585
Below is my process for setting up my ILF bows:

I start off the tuning process by setting tiller to 1/8" positive for split finger and even for three under. Experiment with making small adjustments to the tiller, and pay attention to feel and sound to tell you what is best (it may be best to do that without any string silencers). Once tiller is set, move onto brace height by purposely setting it low/noisey and adjusting higher until your preferred feel is reached. With brace height set, move onto nock height. Over time, I have found that nock height makes a huge difference in arrow tune, and it is not just a one size fits all setting. Start with 1/4" high if you are shooting split finger and maybe 3/8" if you are three under. Like brace height, i will usually set nock height low and keep adjusting up until I find the ideal setting. When the bow it finally tuned, I start the bareshaft tuning by shooting at 5 yards into a layered block target (the layered targets work best because they preserve the angle of the arrow when it hits). Nock left will show weak and nock right is stiff (for a righty). Tune arrow until it is hitting the target perfectly straight. After that I will shoot a fletched and unfletched arrow at 20 and tune brace and nock height until they are hitting fairly close; however, I won't lose my mind if they aren't aren't perfect. Like Fuzzy mentioned, you are only shooting fletched arrows, so if they are grouping and arrow flight is good, leave well enough alone.