some bows fit, others don't

[str8shooter]

I've pretty much always shot recurves or hybrid style longbows. I owned a few reflex Hill style bows and I recently got a Whippenstick Classic which is a string follow longbow. Some of the hybrids I've owned were touchy as hell to shoot but most were pretty easy to shoot well. However, there's something about the straight limbed bows that really jives with my shooting style. This Classic is seriously one of the best handling bows I've owned.

To be more specific, much of how I look at a bow being easy to shoot lies in the grip. I feel the way the straight limbed bows handle is shaped and sets back into the hand is a big part of it. Most of the hybrids have deflexed handles with fairly contoured locator or pistol grips. Logically I know those things promote consistency and reduce torque but with low mass risers I think it may not be exceptionally beneficial. I find a rounded grip wants to squirrel around in the hand a little and the deflexed riser without a lot of mass is more subject to vertical torque.

My Classic has a slight locator grip and it fills the hand nicely. I kinda feel like I hold onto the side of the grip a little more and because it sets back a little when I put tension on the string it locks into my hand easily. That, coupled with the thick cored limbs, lets me know before I even draw if there's any torque in the hand.

Speaking of limbs I'm also finding the Hill style bows are pretty damn resistant torque, both vertically and laterally. I also feel the draw characteristics of a straight limbed bow are more shooter friendly. There is less pre-load so the draw feels more linear and for hunting I can see that being an advantage. I know that equates to less speed but within reasonable distances I don't see that being a detriment.

[whump]

Whump Sez; I would agree that a narrow thick limb is harder to twist than a recurve style limb, so you can grip the riser without causing undue torque . You can draw a recurve with a tight grip and move your fingers around on the string applying more or less pressure to each finger and watch the limbs flex and move especially at the tips, so a floating bow in the hand is necessary for consistent accuracy. That was probably the reason Howard Hill shot a long bow because when you are shooting dangerous game you would have a tendency to grip the riser and pinch a clinker at the same time.. str8----what brace height does that whippen stick "string follow bow" shoot from ?

[str8shooter]

Whump,
Currently have the brace height at 6 3/4". It shoots smooth and quiet once I hit 6 5/8. I've taken it up to about 7 1/4 but I didn't notice a whole lot of difference.

I have a couple new strings coming for it this week. Gonna try out a some 8 str. strings with padded loops. Different material so things may end up changing to keep a nice tune on my arrows.

Chris

[whump]

Whump Sez; I am curious, on the string follow bow ---what arrow weights are you shooting , broadhead and over all arrow weight plus bow poundage,, and what kind of penetration are you getting on critters.? Also do you tune very close to the target---say about 15feet, looking for any nock orientation that is not straight and square to the target face. If you bare shaft then forget the question ,but I tune my bow to arrow set up starting out about 15 feet from the target until I get arrows hitting straight in the target face by adding or removing point weight , then I twist the string until I see no further increase in penetration and I move that back and forth a twist or two until I am satisfied I have the best tune I can get. If they go in straight at 15 feet you can be sure they are flying straight at distance.
I mind tripped myself the first year I went to carbon shafting. I had just moved from wood and wood was easy to see when it left the bow. The carbon was straightening up really fast after the 10yd mark and I was shooting from about 15yds so every thing was square and looking good sticking in the target face. The first deer I shot that year was at 20yds and the arrow zipped through her like paper on a QA shot. The next deer was about 5-8yds from the tree and I got about 12" of penetration on a 120lb 6pt and it was a Q2 shot---I found the deer but I don't go that far on vacation, it was a 5hr track and tough. The next doe I shot that year was right under my tree and again I got only 12" of penetration----that was one lung and a heart shot so she didn't go very far. After that bit of mulling and head scratching I figured out what was going on by stepping up to the target face and shooting a few arrows----arrows were showing weak under 10 yds. After that I tuned close, working every bit of paradox out of the shaft I could get.

I appreciate any info I can get on penetration vs easy to shoot bows --meaning ,not reliant on perfect form, and follow thru on hunting shots, and since I hunt from a stand , I wind up bending and twisting, leaning over and shooting from a lot of uncomfortable positions.

Thanks again to everyone for your input..

[BEN MAHER]

Whunp ... I tend to shoot 50-53# 'er's and may arrows can be between 500 - 600gns ...

I tend to 'tune' by where the arrow is going / landing first then work on flight ... If it inherently hits where I am looking then I afterwards I work on actual flight .
I shoot woodies , AD TRad Lights that tend to weigh in at 600gns because I i use 250gns + up front and my trusty 2016's with 200 up front which gives me about 535gns

I'd note that the string follow a la' Miller much prefer lighter weight arrows of 9gns [ my Miller really seems to get weighed down and 'loggy' at anything of 10gns ] and the Whippenstick and Belcher/Sky like 9-11gns and seem to handle both really well , the Whippenstick seems to like any arrow as it is more cut to centre

I usually run my brace at 6 1/4 - 6.5 "

I have shot comepletely through some good size hogs with these set ups ... my last goat in New Z I complete penetration and they are thick chested blighters from living in those rocks/ mountains ...a 2016 with a 160gn Ribtek and 5 3/4 banana feathers took him at approx 25 yards

[Hank]

On straight bows with straight grips, if you can crack the secret code to get your hand straight into it in the right spot, a whole nother world of stability opens up.

Whats with all this string follow crap? Put some backset (reflex) in those bows and shoot a real man's longbow!

[BEN MAHER]

Hank ... don't be mean ...
I have enough reflexed Hills to re start Agincourt ... A couple of straight profiles and a few string follow ... they all shoot pretty much the same point on but the sf seem a tad less "manly" at the shot ...

I better go chew some concrete huh

Did ya get my last email re the tabs ? I'll send it again to ya

[iron mike]

my hill bows are shot with a back jaw anchor, some of my other bows require high cheek anchor, i shoot from 54 inch longbows up to 68 inch,some are persnickity about draw arm form,so i think it's more about knowing your bows and how you can shoot them well.i don't put much weight in the cause, it's about the solution. all my bows are 65# to 75#, and they are all quite suitable for any of my endeveors.but i'd say as long as it's a longbow, i'll shoot it!

[Tommy345]

why some arrows really dont work in my bow? i really hate it...
im new here..

[whump]

Whump Sez; Now Hank--we're glad you have your big girl panties on but weight as in pounds of pull is not what we are talking about. We are talking about bows that are forgiving if you get a not so perfect release or maybe choke the grip on a hunting shot. String follow bows can weigh as much as the bowyer has glass and lams to glue together----we may have to hold you down and squirt mercury up your root if you don't start paying attention.. Hunt Safe.