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Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

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Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby jeffhalfrack » Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:28 am

Guys I know this has been beat to death!!!! but wtf??? am I doing wrong? I have my feild tips flying good,,,screw a BH on it all goes to hell and it's like square one all over,, I've tried a bunch of different types I got some ace that I glued screw in adapters in to fly ok but I just have to much doubt for my own likeing I feel good enough to hunt but, so what should be a good plan for dial in for BH's I guess what I'm asking is sort of a checklist before I give up on a arrow and BH combo thanks JEFFW
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Re: Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby topcamp » Sat Nov 05, 2011 11:53 am

do your field tips weigh the same up front as your broadheads............???????????? does the broad head shaft weigh the same as the field tip shaft............i don't mean close.........i mean the same..........??????? i guess i'm asking because mine do [ for both questions ] .........and i do not have broadhead flight problems .......both fly the same.
and .......i shoot really wide guess would be that your marginal with your field head setup from the get go...........and putting a broadhead on just pushes everything beyond the edge.

but there are better minds about this stuff on here than me, that will probably come up to speed with better thoughts about what might be going on.......................
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Re: Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby Dan » Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:08 pm

I started will a full length arrow and put on the desired field point weight and bareshafted, cutting .25" at a time, when it flew straight at 15 yards i fletched it up. For me it was that easy, i can shoot snuffer 160's, simmons intercepters, or any profile head i have with 3 four inch feathers. The arrow i use is a Gold tip 55/75 with 250 grain tips.
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Re: Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby Bender » Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:49 pm

First bare shaft tune with field points such that the bare and fletched are practically stacking. Then you tune your broadheads in a similar manner. Only at this stage a fletched field point arrow takes the place of the bare shaft that was used in the first stage.
When you get to dealing with the broadheads there are at least 3 things to consider though that are kind of "outside" of regular tuning as it relates to nock point height, and stiff/weak considerations.
1) Since the broadhead will try to steer the arrow, spin test the arrow in some fashion that will allow you to determine that the broadhead is mounted nice and true to the shaft. Do NOT be fooled by those who claim that since the arrow spins it can't matter. Spin up doesn't start to happen until several yards after the arrow has left the bow. If the broadhead is crooked and has begun to steer the arrow off line, then when spin up does happen the arrow will then continue straight, but on the false path established by the crooked broad head. It may help you figure out what is going on to also mount the broadheads with all the same orientation.
2) Arrows with broadheads are more sensitive to fletch interfence. Anything that slightly pushes the nock end of the arrow will set the broadhead up to try and steer the arrow off line from the front. I use lipstick smeared on the edge of the fletch. I prefer Prostitute Red. If there is a smear on the riser or rest after shooting a lipsticked arrow, well, there ya go. Its messy but I find easier to interpret than using powder. If interference is confirmed, you can then clean up the bow and fletching, then lipstick just one fletch at a time until you find the one that is making contact. Once you know that then you can decide on what to try to correct it.
3) You might find that no matter what you do, the broadhead arrows always show a little weak. This sometimes happens. I believe that it is due to an unusually long broadhead making the arrow act as if it is overall a longer and therefore weaker arrow.
No nromally it shouldn't be such a huge hassle, but once problems are present, then these are a few things to consider.
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Re: Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby Gino Bruno » Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:15 pm

Bender wrote:
3) You might find that no matter what you do, the broadhead arrows always show a little weak. This sometimes happens. I believe that it is due to an unusually long broadhead making the arrow act as if it is overall a longer and therefore weaker arrow.

this is very very underrated and something most guys don't consider. i find it to be true on almost all broadheads..... not that you can't get most of them to group with field points. but if you are really really anal, this is where paper tuning after group tuning can really help........ or drive a guy crazy. :lol:
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Re: Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby Feral Donkey » Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:53 am

If you want a little excitement in your life try bareshafting with unvented broadheads. :lol: My current set of arrows I bareshafted with glue-on Snuffers. Worked fine.
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Re: Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby Ranger B » Tue Nov 08, 2011 6:34 am

I didn't have time to read everyone's reply above so I may be redundant. There is no guarantee that you will get good flight from a BH that weighs exactly the same as a field point. Especially, if you use a two blade and double especially if the blades are wide. They will catch air and guide the arrow. If the arrow is not bareshafted perfectly the arrow will bow coming out and then the BH and feathers will catch air and it can drive the arrow stiff or weak. It can also depend on the orientation of the BH.

I go out with several BHs of varying weights and retune at about 30 yards. At that range you will see exactly what the arrow is going to do. You'll find one that seems to fly great and others, even of the same weight, will not. 3 blades don't seem to have this problem too much, especially if they are spinning hard with a helical feather.
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Re: Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby Jim Casto Jr » Tue Nov 08, 2011 6:56 am

Sounds like your field tips are right up againt the peg, on the weak side, and you're broadheads are putting you over the edge. Just a guess, so.... tell us about your outfit: Weight, draw length, shaft size tip weight, arrow weight, etc., etc.
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Re: Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby cst » Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:05 am

Maybe your arrows arent right for that bow and broadhead setup and no reasonable amount of tuning is going to change that. Just because the field points seem to be flying well doesnt necessarily mean that they are or that you can achieve this same acceptable flight with broadheads.

After typing what I typed I saw Jim had written basically the same thing.
Does that mean I am finally getting it? Or is it bad news for Jim?
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Re: Does tuning broadheads have to be this hard???

Postby whump » Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:57 pm

Whump Sez; I think the people above pretty much covered it. Being on the edge of your spine can cause that problem as well as the broadhead not being exactly true to the shaft as Bender mentioned. I have no idea what size fletching you are shooting but I glue almost an entire turkey on my shafting for feathers, either 5" or 5.5 high back shield 3 fletch. I shoot wide heads, magnus 1 or simmons, which are prone to demonic possession of arrow flight . I have very little problems getting the fletched shafts to stick in straight in a hard target at 15 feet, yes--feet. If I can eliminate nock left or right stick ins at that distance I am ready to go. If you are tuned up, your arrow should be out of paradox at 15ft . .

Sometimes to keep from buying all new shafting large fletching will save the day. I admit you can be covering up a spine problem by doing that. If you are on the weak side try dropping your brace some. Try not to get locked in to one thing, move your brace up or down and see if things improve. I believe in large fletching for hunting. Cold mornings, excitement , maybe a short draw , bad body position effecting your form , a bad release, a lot of things come in to play so I hedge my bets with high back shield fletching. If you are shooting 4" fletching you might try four fletch. If you are on the weak side you can also build out your side plate a little, You can do this to start, with tape, just add a few layers to build it out some , the farther away from center you get the stiffer the arrow will act. If you don't have a decent Foc your broadhead arrows will act like bats chasing a bug if your form is not pretty good. Well you should be quite perplexed by now, but at least you can try a few things without buying shafting just yet. Hunt safe
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