Whats your setup and why?

[Hornseeker]

OK...I'm trying to figure out arrows for this FLY with the light 36# limbs (actually 38 on the fly)... I've got lots of arrow spine choices. I can shoot a real light arrow with a light tip and zip them 20 yards..getting very little discrepancy in elevation...
Or, I can shoot a stiffer arrow with a heavy tip and get a lot more discrepancy in elevation, but they seem to not be as twitchy as the light ones, getting Less windage discrepancy..

I guess somewhere in the middle would be the best idea?

Anyhow, I"m curious to see what your guys setups are. Right now, I'm shooting the Fly with Samick CE's, a 12 strand D97 off a Kap flipper and a little plunger and a hunting sight off my compound. The grip on the fly is just wrapped in that tennis racket tape. It seems to be doing real well. I may throw a Stab on her...she wants to fall off to the right at the shot, I think its from the sight bracket and such..

I'll also be shooting my Sapph Quad Carbon, 46# barebow...10 strand D97 with padded loops. I shoot it with a very slight cant. I shoot the Fly "almost" vertical, but less cant than the LB for sure.

Good Luck All,

Ernie

[Feral Donkey]

Well you draw about 29" right? I'm running about the same weight on the Sheep and I'm drawing 30". I'm using a NAP FlipperII with a felt pad as a side plate and 30.5" 2212s with 85 grain screw in points weighing about 400 grains. Why? Because that combo just works so damned well and it's tuned. We're shooting at known distances so speed means nothing.

[Hornseeker]

Nah, speed does mean something. Alot less at 20 yards than at 45 or 60 or 100, but the slower it goes the more elevation error you'll have with a slight variation in anchor.. You know, if I draw 28 1/4 one time and 28 5/16 another...at 20 yards you wont see it... at 60 you will and at 100 it will probably mean 4 foot of difference..

Anyhow...as long as it works for you thats all that matter! I am going to try and find a good medium in there somewhere. All I really have are the same old shafts as usual, either the 45/60's or the 55/75's. I can cut these 45/60s down and use a lighter point and probably get a great flier. Also, heck, the plunger really allows for some good tuning options!

E

[rwsbow]

But being that we are shooting at 20 yards, speed DOESN't mean that much..known distances are the easiest to shoot. Now if it were 0-20 yard outdoor 3D, it would make a HUGE difference to people like me who shoot sights.
But anyway...
I shoot a Quinn XL3D,40lbs at 28"..my draw is 28 1/2 and shoot a 29inch 1913 XX75 with 125 grain glue in bullet points and 3 vanes fletches with 4 in vanes and offset 4 degrees. Toxonics sight with 1 ring pin (no post inside the ring..ring is 5/16 in diameter) 10.5 inch stabilizer with 3.5 oz weight on the end..elcheapo homemade vinyl rest with felt pad to shim to correct centershot..14 strand Dacron B-50 "Hanky special" string..
Reason I use this stuff is because on good shooting days, you can drive tacks with it..it's me that has to get fine tuned now!!

[PAarcher]

When I shoot indoors I strive to slow my arrow down to reduce my gap. If I can get close to point on I shoot spots better.

I'm shooting my Stallion (50#) off the shelf with Cabelas SST230 shafts and 140gr points. It seems to be working pretty well as long as I do what I'm supposed to do.
I wanted to shoot my Firefly with the Synerzy limbs set at about 45#. Set it up with a T300 and plunger and I cannot shoot it to save my life! Every damn arrow combo I try to put through it shows up as being too weak. Even my 1916s. I don't know what it is and it has me a bit frustrated. The other problem I have with the fly right now is that whatever I shoot it seems as though my gap is huge making it very hard to be consistant.
I'm sure it's me. It almost always is.

[KCummings]

Wow, you guys really do take this a lot more serious than I do.

I'm shooting the Titan (48# @ 28") with the Samick Carbon Extreme BF limbs because I am under contract to do so. If I shoot any other bow or even say anything too nice about any other bow, Rob will sue me into oblivion. Besides, it's the nicest bow I have ever shot.



I shoot off of a freaking chair pad stuck to the shelf. I tried an elevated rest, but that seemed to complicated to me and the guys in my winter animal league never let me hear the end of it. My string is whatever Chad (LBR) thought it should be when I told him what poundage and nocks I was using.

Arrows are either Carbon Express Terminator Select (45/60) or XX78 Super Slams in 2016. The CE's should be way to stiff but I guess nobody told the Titan.

I shoot 3 under and use a tab that I cut out of a piece of leather I had laying around. I tried a Black Widow tab but for some reason it wanted to slap my lip.

I guess that's about it.



KPC

[Hornseeker]

Yeah, if I wasn't shooting sights on that Fly I'd go super heavy so it was point on...but with sights it doesn't matter.

Fun chit.

E

[tjdeerslayer37]

im shooting my 61" binghams T/D curve with cedar arrows and 125 gr tips.

im shooting the bow, well, because thats the only one i got. lol

the arrows, when i first started shooting i felt since im shooting "trad" i might as well go the whole way and shoot cedars. now i know that wasnt the best idea.

i should note once again that i never had the slightest idea about tuning when i first set up my bow so ive got full length shafts with 125's on em.

[Hornseeker]

You shoot these spots for a while TJ, and keep tweaking your setup, shooting some bares mixed with fletched arrows and soon you will have some tuned! I dont know where you are on tuning knowledge, but just ask on the forum, there are some guys that know a ton on here.

Ernie

[Albertakid]

I am shooting a black bear warf riser samick extreme limbs 66" at 52@30 with lightspeed arrows. why am I shooting it well it is as good a bow as I have ever owned and I shoot it better than the rest..I use a springy rest and shoot 3 under don't own any other bows so it is all I am shooitng.

Jordan