Pirates Of Archery

So...sometimes I'll have my good wood blade on my band saw and I'm too lazy to take it off and switch in the one I use for glass and such...

Therefore..as I did with a few of these kids bows, I"ll just take a hack saw and real quick like saw a few chunks out... Ugly, but fast and effective...


Then, this Invaluable rasp does the rest in a matter of maybe 2 minutes... if the woods not too hard or oily...


The other day I free handed one with a router and was very pleased... I think that will be a more common method for now on..

Ernie

Dunno how i missed this part of the forum. great thread Ernie..

Chris.

More! More!

epoxy is a liquid and it will boil.
Too high temp not only cause boil,but also destory the micro structure of the glass fiber.

Thanks for that hera! I have not had that yet..but the first couple I glued with strips I was at like 210 degrees and for some reason didn't get the damage! Now I use about 150-160...

OK...I have a couple more bows just like that one that need to be finished...I'll pick up where I left off and do that... soon!

E

Well get after it....I have had this buildalong bookmarked since I joined the site.

Ernie,
Hows the kids bows turning out?
Bob

Howdy all, just thought I would chuck my 2 cents worth in. Using a hotbox and not the heat strips it is my understanding that the temp shouldnt go much above 140 as above this can cause the glass fibers to 'prickle' or stand up .Also fascinated to read about having air pressure aligned with target weight.Must try.

This is a great buildalong for kids bows Ernie. Previously I thought it impractical to make composite bows for kids but you make it look easy. I have made four bows with heat strips now and I reckon I'm ready to give a quick kids bow a go, so thanks again for the buildalong.

Hornseeker wrote:Question, I've got a kids bow curing right now. I pumped it and heated it at 12:30. I took it to about 180, then dropped it to 160 (remember, using my temp method... between metal and strips, but no bow, towards the front of the form... I couldnt' find a good spot to put the probe into the bow without screwing up glue lines?????)....

I thought I might share an idea I had to allow accurate measurement of the temperature at the interface between the metal and the adjacent material (being the bow limb) without distorting the glue lines. I have a shaped block that transfers the air hose pressure into the riser block so it has good even pressure on the back lams. I drilled a hole right at the edge of the block so my temperature probe (thermocouple on a cheap multimeter) can be pushed right into the centre of the strip. Perhaps the picture is worth a thousand words.... Cheers, Rod



PS. I put a metal strip between the heat strip and the air hose so the air hose cant stretch the heat strip sideways as the pressure increases. Maybe its not an issue but not worth the risk IMO.