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Recurve Build Along

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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby tjdeerslayer37 » Thu Sep 24, 2009 9:11 pm

looks great so far.

how does your previous recurve feel for "pointability" or shootability? if you leave the cruved section of the riser on it will add to the shootability being that the grip is set forward. id leave it with the curve on if it were me.
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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby OH Longbow » Thu Sep 24, 2009 9:22 pm

tjdeerslayer37 wrote:looks great so far.

how does your previous recurve feel for "pointability" or shootability? if you leave the cruved section of the riser on it will add to the shootability being that the grip is set forward. id leave it with the curve on if it were me.



tj, my recurve was OK, I like my longbows better. I think this would make the grip a little more like the grip on a 3 pc. takedown. I want a fairly "low wrist" grip. It doesn't have to be a low as my longbows' grips but, my other recurve was too much. Thanks for your input, I didn't think about a possible loss of a little stability.

John
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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby BK in TEXAS » Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:21 pm

OH Longbow wrote:
tjdeerslayer37 wrote:looks great so far.

how does your previous recurve feel for "pointability" or shootability? if you leave the cruved section of the riser on it will add to the shootability being that the grip is set forward. id leave it with the curve on if it were me.



tj, my recurve was OK, I like my longbows better. I think this would make the grip a little more like the grip on a 3 pc. takedown. I want a fairly "low wrist" grip. It doesn't have to be a low as my longbows' grips but, my other recurve was too much. Thanks for your input, I didn't think about a possible loss of a little stability.

John


It won't cause stability problems. What TJ means is that the further back the handle is in relationship to the limbs the easier it will be to torque.

You've already made one of these same ones right? You might want to do a Force-Draw curve and see where it starts to stack on you. I don't think you mentioned the length of the bow, but you have a 29" draw, right? I would think you are fine, but you could be getting close.

I agree with TJ though...I'd leave the curve on & just carve the grip a bit lower if that's what you are really after.

Looking GREAT by the way!

BK
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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby jwillis » Fri Sep 25, 2009 7:23 am

BK in Wisconsin wrote:...What TJ means is that the further back the handle is in relationship to the limbs the easier it will be to torque.

You've already made one of these same ones right? You might want to do a Force-Draw curve and see where it starts to stack on you. I don't think you mentioned the length of the bow, but you have a 29" draw, right? I would think you are fine, but you could be getting close.

I think BK is right. It would be wise to do a FD curve and see at what draw length the sweet spot is located before you start modding the riser...and it won't cost or change anything to measure...just take a little time to measure the draw weights and plot the curve. Jim
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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby OH Longbow » Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:09 am

Thanks BK and jwillis. I can't check the FD curve because I can't string my old recurve. The handle is cracked and I'm afraid it will fail. If I take the curve off the front, I will probably build it back up with flat stock. I just don't like the curve look on the front of the handle. I can probably do this without changing the grip location. I have a friend who built a recurve off this same form. I might grab his and see what the FD curve looks like.

I understand about the torque issue. My Mathews Switchback is prone to this.

Thanks guys. I appreciate your assistance.

John

BTW, the bow is a 58" recurve, designed for 45# @ 29".
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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby OH Longbow » Sat Sep 26, 2009 7:51 pm

Here is more on the build. I was first messing around with shaping the tips a little. I used a combination of the table top belt sander, the disc sander and a file. This was just an initial rough shape.

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Then, I rough cut fades in the pieces I added to the belly of the riser.

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I used the a template to mark the riser however, I didn't photograph it. I then took the bow back to the bandsaw and started cutting the rough shape. Now, I need to let you know that although I used the word "cutting", I don't know if that accurately describes the process. It was kinda' of a burning, moaning, bending, prying process. There are a lot of things the bandsaw blade was doing but, cutting was not one of them. Needless to say, this blade is just about done. I'm going to try to cut the limbs on my buddies bow before trashing it but, I'm not hopeful I'll be successful.

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I laid the template on the riser and lined it up with my cut. This shows how I off-set it so the grip wouldn't be marked quite as deep.

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The next series of images show the continuation of the rough shaping. I continued to use the bandsaw. I had my basement/garage filled with the aroma of burning/melting Dymond Wood.

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After cutting the rough shape, I started using the sanders. I have a 1" and a 3" drum sander for my drill press. I also use my tabletop belt sander.

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Stay tuned.

John
"The path of least resistance is what leads rivers and men to be crooked." - my father quoting an unknown source.
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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby OH Longbow » Sat Sep 26, 2009 7:52 pm

Now, its time for the rotary tool. I chucked a square cutting burr. This one was already used on a couple of bows and showed the wear.

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By the time I was done, it was in much worse shape. It won't hardly even cut now. I am re-thinking my choice of Dymondwood. This stuff is brutal on tools and difficult to work. I only used this tool to cut the riser shelf.

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Starting to shape up a little.

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I can't wait to put a string on it so, I'm going to go ahead and file string grooves.

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Here it is with the tape removed, a string installed and a tillering stick. You're looking at the bottom limb. It needs a little shaved from the right side but, I'm going to wait for now. I'm pretty sure I'm going to re-mark my limbs and check them for proper width. BTW, I strung it and put it on the scale. It is 60# @ 29". Wow! That's way off. I planned it for 45#. I think the limbs are a little wide.

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Here's the other limb. It was good.

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Here are a couple of the strung profile and the riser area.

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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby OH Longbow » Sat Sep 26, 2009 7:55 pm

Here are a couple of more.

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I couldn't just let it sit there with a string on it. Its kinda' like letting a pretty lady just sit in the corner. I put a couple (20+) arrows through it. It shot nice. No hand shock when compared to my longbows but, it did make a little more noise. The initial brace height was 8 3/4". I still have a lot more shaping to do on the riser and limb tips. BTW, I cut the limbs down a little. It is now 58# @ 29".
Last edited by OH Longbow on Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"The path of least resistance is what leads rivers and men to be crooked." - my father quoting an unknown source.
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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby OH Longbow » Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:09 pm

Khaled wrote:Thanks for sharing the build along thier isn't much of one pice recurves build along on this forum nice job.
I Don't like slow buld alongs :D of curse work.
OH Longbow wrote:This will be my fourth bow. I have built one in each of the previous three years. The first was a recurve. The next two were longbows.

can you show us som of them? thye must bee as good as this one.
are they for hunting or target shoting?
Khaled.


Khaled, here are my others.

The first is a 68" longbow. It has a red elm core, red elm veneers, clear glass and a shedua riser. It pulls 60# @ 29"

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The second is another 68" longbow. It has an action boo core, bocote veneers, clear glass, and a camo dymondwood riser. It pulls 61# @ 29".

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Last year, I started tying my own flemish strings. The one on the first bow is one of my strings. The one on the second was bought from Bingham.

Both these bows shoot really nice. I like them both.

John
"The path of least resistance is what leads rivers and men to be crooked." - my father quoting an unknown source.
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Re: Recurve Build Along

Postby OH Longbow » Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:29 pm

Khaled, here is the last one. It is a 58" recurve. It was about 50# @ 29". I had a major bowyer's accident while making an alteration. When I first made this, it was not a center shot bow. I wanted to go ahead and make it a center shot so, I started to deepen the site window. The rasp was going way too slow so, I decided to use the table saw to dado the material out. The problem is, I don't have a dado blade. I went ahead and just made multiple passes with a standard blade, moving it another blade width on each pass. The problem happened on the last pass. As I slide it across the blade, I allowed the riser to tilt forward in my hands. This caused the blade to gouge deep into the side of the riser window. I sanded it out as best I could but, I think this is what weakened it. One day while stringing it, I heard a crack. I then saw the crack in the grip, right above the web of my bow hand. It extends upward into the shelf. The bow is trying to act like a very large pair of scissors. Prior to this, the bow shot great. I want to beat my head against the wall because this alteration was completely unnecessary. The crack is visible in the last two photos.

The bow had an action boo core with brown fiberglass. The riser was alternating pieces of cherry, white oak, and black walnut. It also has mahagony (spelling?) accents on the belly of the riser. For limb tip overlays, I just took the scrap I cut off the length of the limbs and glued them on.

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"The path of least resistance is what leads rivers and men to be crooked." - my father quoting an unknown source.
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