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bow swap build-along for catamount (finished pics p10)

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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby Kirkll » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:46 am

Nice job on the build along Jim....you take such care in laying things out so precise....amazing details in that riser....

that mosaic accent has some back bone to it too...i love it bro! .........what are the woods you used putting it together? Kirk
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Only archers are fool enough to want to make a composite with natural materials and man made materials, and then bend it repeatedly...
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sun Oct 12, 2008 7:54 pm

BullMtnArchery wrote:Looking great. Hopefully the new limbs come out to the weight you wanted.

Brock

The new limbs came out spot on perfect at 53#@28 finished! At least on my scale...and if they don't lose anything during sealing/sanding. I'm very pleased.

Kirkll wrote:Nice job on the build along Jim....you take such care in laying things out so precise....amazing details in that riser....that mosaic accent has some back bone to it too...i love it bro! .........what are the woods you used putting it together? Kirk

The yellow wood is osage, brown wood is black walnut and the little dark pieces are cocobolo. Thanks for the compliments!

Jim
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sun Oct 12, 2008 8:40 pm

I leave the butts of the limbs long and square during the tip straightening process. This makes it easier to stand up the bow. These recurves are just freaky and confusing to straighten the tips. Look at this limb. With an 18" tillering stick in the bow, it would appear that the tip is twisting to the left because the string is on the left side...but when I move the string into the center of the limb, the tip will show twist to the right. What I want is for the tip to pull straight when the string is in the center. So this is how I straighten the twist. I exercise the bow by pulling it back a few times, twang the string a couple or three times to settle the string loop into place, then pull it back with the tillering stick and check it for straightness. If the string is off center like this, I move it to center and see which way the tip is twisting. I repeat the mantra "if it pulls to one side, mark that side." So I put an "X" on that side of the nock. Then unstring the bow and file that side of the nock deeper by about five strokes with my round file. Then repeat the process: string it again, exercise it again, pull it on the tillering stick, check for twist. I do this on each limb until they are perfectly straight.
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This shows the string centered and the tip twisting to the right, so I mark the right side of the nock with an "X" and file that side five strokes.
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Now it's a bit closer.
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Now it's pulling pretty straight.
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When straightening twist in a recurve, think of centering the nocks so the string is pulling on the centerline of the limbs. When you file one side of the nock closer to center, you are simply moving the pull of the string in relation to the mass of the limb. Since the limb will always pull to the weak side, moving the nock towards the other, stronger side serves to move the string over a bit, which changes the balance of the limb and corrects the twist. This is really easy to see with tillering blocks, because you can easily move the block and see what it does to the limb.
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Don't be confused by this illustration...you should only sand the strong side of the limb IF the profile is out of symmetry (take the string off and eyeball the limb for symmetry or even measure it with a ruler at several places). It's easy to cut out the limbs so they are assymmetrical sometimes, so that is why I put it in the illustration. However, you should always deepen the nock on the side first to straighten the tips. Start with the nocks about 1/8" wider than the finished dimension, and this should provide plenty of room for them to be filed if necessary. Decide how narrow you want them to go, for example...3/8" wide between the nocks. If they get to this point and the limb still has some twist, then stop filing the nocks and start sanding the strong side of the limb a bit and see if that will finally straighten it out.
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:08 pm

Once the limbs are pulling straight, I measured the width inside the nocks and filed them an equal number of strokes down the finished width. For these light weight limbs, I filed them a bit narrower to 5/16" between the nocks. On these heavier limbs I filed them to 3/8" between the nocks. I also sanded the sides of the tips so the width outside of the nocks are equal on both limbs at 5/8" wide. Inside the nocks 3/8" + 1/8" on each side for the string = 5/8" total on the outside of the nocks. Next, with the string on the bow, I marked on both sides of the string for the center groove and filed the grooves.
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Marked the cut offs on the sides for the limb butts.
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Marked it completely around the limbs on backs and bellys.
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Cut through the glass on the belly side.
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Then flipped the limb over and cut through on the back side. Cutting half way through keeps the glass from shredding when the saw comes through.
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Beveled the ends of the overlays and cleaned up the glue squeeze out.
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Removed the tape from the limbs.
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Then, blended the limbs into the riser with spindle sander, file and 100 grit sander.
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:21 pm

Here's what it looks like with the limbs and riser blended in.
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Cutting the extra length off the tips from 1" to 3/4" tip to groove.
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Rounding the tip overlays with sandpaper.
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Sanding the edges of the limbs an equal number of strokes on each edge. At this point, I also adjusted the tiller to 1/8" positive (lower limb stronger). Catamount shoots split finger.
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After all of the sanding was done, I did a twist check with a little bit of adjustments.
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Blending in the riser and finish sanding with 220 grit all over.
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Final weight check. I wrote this down to save for writing on the bow after it is sprayed.
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:27 pm

Vacuumed off all of the dust and wiped off really good with a clean t-shirt.
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Sealed the holes with super glue and chased them out with the drill again after it was dry.
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Mixed up some Thunderbird epoxy gloss, let it activate for 30 to 45 minutes while I was sanding the bow. Then I thinned it 50% so it was real runny and smeared it on all of the porous wood surfaces of the limbs and the riser.
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I let those dry really well, then sanded them all back to bare wood with 220 grit. I did this sealing and sanding three times over the weekend and the pores are starting to fill in. Hopefully, the fourth time will get them all filled. These walnut overlays have some deep pores.
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby VRB » Mon Oct 13, 2008 5:52 am

Great build-along,that bow looks awesome.Really liked the limb twist illustration,I always have that little bit of doubt if I am working on the right side.
Bill
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby Hornseeker » Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:14 am

Wow Jim... I think you may have to win an award for this build along... Gino's was very thorough...but this one may be the most thorough ever! THanks MUCH!

E
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby tjdeerslayer37 » Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:39 pm

something i really like is that you put the clear glass over the walnut overlay, thats a nice touch.
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Mon Oct 13, 2008 4:08 pm

tjdeerslayer37 wrote:something i really like is that you put the clear glass over the walnut overlay, thats a nice touch.

That's a trick that I learned from the guy who taught me to make bows. On my limb design, there's about 12" of glass left, so its a way to use the cut offs from the limb glass. Blacktail also puts a clear layer over a limb veneer. Check it out on the website. When the bow is finished, it makes the overlay look really deep and the middle overlays look like they are floating. Jim
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