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bow swap build-along for catamount (finished pics p10)

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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:47 pm

Here are the cured overlays all bulky and ugly.
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I know, this was a lot to grind off, but on the 50 grit zirconium it only took about 30 seconds per side. I had to really be careful and make sure I was focused on it while grinding.
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Squared up the tips on the disk grinder and measured them to each other so they match. After grinding these are one inch past the nock groove.
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If you taper the overlays this way, you have really, really got to be careful. I put a few layers of masking tape on the glass and watch closely. Look, grind, look, grind. It would only take a second to ruin the limb. I've seen some of you pre-gluing and pre-grinding them before gluing them on, and I might try that soon. This step is very scary.
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Here's how I mark and file the nock grooves using the "two-step method." Here's how it works...
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First I marked the back one inch from the tip, then took the line all of the way around the tip.
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This time I went a head and made three cuts with my micro hack saw from Sears. Just through the surface...about 1/32" deep so it will guide the file.
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Next, I tried filing the grooves with a dremel tool like someone on here suggested. It didn't work worth a darn because it wanted to jump around and chip the wood overlay.
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So, I filed them with my rat tail file. This one is 6" x 1/4" and just a little too big so I only used the tip. I'm trying to find one that is 4" x 1/8" but can't find one locally. I may have to order one but it will cost $8 for shipping the $4 file...makes you want to say "hmmm?"
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So, here's the first cut on the side.
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Measure and mark for the second cut. I make a mark across the belly about 5/16 to 3/8" from the first mark on the belly, then mark the angle on the sides. Double check when done to make sure the angles are going the right direction...lol. Don't ask...
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Making the second cut. File it so there is only one file width where the two cuts meet at the back.
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After the sides and back grooves are done and the sides cleaned out between the first and second cuts, I rounded things off with a narrow piece of sandpaper. I found this at Home Depot. It has foam padding on the back and I cut it into these narrow strips. Move it around so it makes a rounded cut. Sanding cord would work better but I don't have any so I've been using this.
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Next, I mounted up the limbs and made an initial check for the string seating correctly in the nocks and tip alignment. This pair of limbs are really pulling straight. One is perfectly straight on dimensional center and the other one is only slightly off.
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby VRB » Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:05 am

Great build-along.Looking forward to seeing the finished bow.I use the chain saw files for string nocks, they come in 3 or 4 different sizes.
Bill
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Fri Sep 12, 2008 9:20 pm

Here's the rest of the photos from last weekend's work. This is the other tip on the first brace.
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I measured the tiller at each end of the riser. Right now 1/16" less on the lower limb. Bookmatching the glass and the lam grinding must have been good. This 62" riser/limb combo is giving a 8" brace with an AMO 62" string. I might cut the nocks closer to the riser on the next bow so the brace will come down some. They typically shoot best at 8" but it would be nice to have it a bit lower for tuning options.
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First brace on the tillering tree.
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I exercised it some, then pulled it up to about 28". I had to guess how far to pull since the riser is not cut out yet, so I pulled it to 24-1/4 on the tree since it looked like about 2" of riser block below the grip. These limbs came out way below target weight, so I'm going to build another pair. Catamount said he wouldn't mind having a set of light limbs, so I'll grind both pairs to fit the riser and send them along with the bow. I made several changes on these limbs...parallel wedges instead of straight-tapered wedges, all actionboo cores instead of veneers plus actionboo cores, but I'm pretty sure that narrowing them from 1-3/4" to 1-5/8" was the biggest difference. I thickened them some, but obviously not enough. Bingham's weight charts show a .015" difference between their 2" wide and 1-3/4" wide limbs, so I'm assuming that my design should probably be similar. I'll add on about .006" or .007" per 5# on the next limbs and see how they turn out.
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby Gino Bruno » Fri Sep 12, 2008 9:22 pm

awesome stuff jim!!!!! keep it coming :D
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby tjdeerslayer37 » Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:39 pm

that profile is SWEEEEET. :D
Save a tree, shoot a buck

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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby hera » Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:24 am

Good job.
This is a standard procedure of bow making. ;)
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby tjdeerslayer37 » Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:08 pm

nice net form back there btw. :D

who needs a net?? i just pull those 5 pounders right up next to me and flop em back in. :P lol just kiddin ya jim.
Save a tree, shoot a buck

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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:53 pm

TJ, this whole stack of boards is net frame molds. I put air hose fittings on a washing machine hose for pressure in the form. Kind of like the fire hose system for bows.
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Here's the net to handle a five-pounder...25" teardrop.
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And this one's a 25" catch-and-release.
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby tjdeerslayer37 » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:06 pm

swweeeeeet jim, those are awesome. no hijacking, but how thick do you lay them up? 1"???
Save a tree, shoot a buck

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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby BullMtnArchery » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:10 pm

JWillis - Looking good. I like the riser wood combo you used.
I know you were shootin for 53# but the limbs came in real light. What were they?
also besides the .040 glass what were the specs on the wood lambs.

Thanks

Brock
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