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bow swap build-along for catamount (finished pics p10)

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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:57 am

Kirkll wrote:Looked all over my photo bucket page for those Jim, and couldn't locate "Clickable Thumbnails" ...where are they hiding bro?

At the bottom of the page, there are check boxes for "select/select all" images, and to the right of that is a box that says "Generate html and IMG code". Click that box, then it goes to the next window... the clickable thumbnails are in the third box down from the top. Jim
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby Kirkll » Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:16 pm

lets give this a try.....Image


By jove, i think eee's bloody got it!.......Cool! :D
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby Ted K » Sat Aug 16, 2008 5:22 am

Huh, a jointer/planer combo - not a bad lookin' tool - would you recommend that thing, Kirk?

BTW - Where's the next installment on this buildalong; I can't wait. :lol: :P :lol: :)
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:37 am

Cutting the riser mounting pads on the outside of the line and as parallel to it as possible. Before cutting, I checked that the blade was square to the table.
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Then its over to the disk grinder. I checked that it was square too. I grind both mounting pad surfaces square to one side of the riser--usually the opposite side from where the shelf will be cut. Both sides should be parallel, but this helps insure that the pads are aligned to one plane just in case they are not.
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Check the surface with a straight edge to make sure its flat. Also check it for square against the side(s). In this case, it is square to both sides. :)
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This is a trick that I learned from Hera (I think that Hera means "hero" in Taiwan because he's a genius when it comes to handtools).
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If the mounting pad surfaces are aligned, the rulers will join perfectly together at the center of the riser...in this case they do, so we're good to go. I was very careful in marking the lines. I cut to the outside of the line, then ground to the inside of the line.
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I decided to glue on a mounting pad overlay of black walnut. This is another first for me, but I thought it would look much better on this riser because of all of the stacked layers. It might also be stronger and quieter? Not sure about that. Here is a dry run of the glueup...and this is why it's good to do a dry run...when the glue went on, the pressure blocks wanted slide off the ends of the riser, so I clamped a block of 2x4 to the workbench on each end. This worked really well.
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:27 am

Next, I carefully clean up the squeeze out around the mounting pad overlays, using the spindle grinder.
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Like before, I hold the block at a slight angle for most of the grinding to keep the sides parallel. The reason for this is that I already planed the riser to parallel at finished size because once there is glass in the riser back overlays and I don't want to run that glass through the planer. Also, I don't have a thickness sander big enough for the whole riser block. Once I get a bigger thickness sander, then I'll do these glue ups oversized, then sand them parallel after they are all glued on.
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Now that the block is cleaned up and squared, I measured the thickness at several places to make sure it is parallel, then flattened the mounting pad overlays with the disk sander. I checked the sander for square before starting.
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After grinding, I checked the surfaces for flatness with a straight edge and for square. These are flat and square. :)
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Next, I chopped off the ends of the block with the cut off saw. This might not be necessary since I'm going to bandsaw the profile later, but there were some little checks in the ends of the wood on a couple of pieces and this cut those off. Then I put some old Z30 sealer all over the riser. I got this from Fedoras in the early 90s and still have some remaining. I don't know if they still sell it, but the stuff is wonderful for keeping the blocks sealed during production. I wipe it on everytime I cut or grind the riser.
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The riser is now ready for drilling, so I'll set it aside for awhile and finish prepping the limb materials.
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First, I'll prepare the glass. I'm using 1-3/4" x .040" x 72" ULS brown for this bow. It looks beautiful and purple...lol. I have no idea how this is going to look with brown and yellow, but we'll see. I checked the thickness of the glass and it all miked out at .041 to .042 at several places on each piece. This is fine, as my previous bows have been like this, so hopefully, I can use it and hit target weight.
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I put painter's tape on the shiny back side of the glass. I use 2" wide, tan, removable painter's tape.
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Then I flip the glass and trim off the excess. I like doing it this way because it covers the entire surface of the glass. Using narrower tape, such as 1-1/2" or 1-3/4" can leave glass uncovered at the edges which can cause an optical illusion during tillering when making a full-width bow. This bow is going to be 1-5/8" wide, so that doesn't matter, but it still works well in gluing and makes it easier to mark the bow out after gluing.
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The glue up for this limb size requires 31" lams and glass, so I'll measure and mark the glass. I marked "upper" and "lower" on each half of each 72" piece of glass so the limbs will be book matched and the same thickness after glue up. I didn't use to do this, until I discovered that not all Gordon's glass is created equal...equal in thickness that is...and I had problems with bows coming out with the tiller wrong. Without book matching the glass, the limbs can easily come out 1/2" different in tiller. :( Hopefully, these will come out equal.
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Cutting the pieces with the dremel tool. (Wear goggles and a respirator for this, as the stuff really stinks and puffs a ton of glass smoke into the air.)
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Next, I marked off the belly glass and removed some tape to expose the areas where the belly butt and tip overlays will be glued on.
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These are ready to be sanded, so I'll sand them with coarse sandpaper to rough up the gluing surfaces of the glass. I ground the overlays with 50 grit drum in the thickness sander, so they are good to go.
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The lams, wedges, glass and overlays are all put together in order and put into a stack for each limb. I always keep them in the same order with the tips on the right so I know which end is the butts and the tips. I also marked them "upper", "lower", "back", "belly", "tip", and "butt"...lol...because I tend to get excited sometimes during glue up and this keeps them all in the right order and position.
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I made some osage limb belly overlays for the butts and tips...maybe this will look good on the (burgundy) brown glass. Hopefully it won't look gaudy and the deer will see Catamount coming through the woods..."quick, hide, here comes the guy with the osage bow tips...lol. :o
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:35 am

This is all I have at this point, because this is a "live" build along. I'll try to get the limbs glued up this week and post another sequence next week. Jim
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby Kirkll » Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:30 pm

Ted K wrote:Huh, a jointer/planer combo - not a bad lookin' tool - would you recommend that thing, Kirk?



i like it a lot for milling rough cut lumber....but for every day bow building.... it's not a very practical tool...it just plain and simple turns a lot of wood into chips... in a damn hurry too!....i do use the jointer to squre up a riser block edge now and then, but you gotta watch what you are doing pretty darn close, and keep you fingers out of the way...both of tools those don't give much back if you get tangled up with them....


Hey Jim, what are your specs on the tip wedges?...i want to give that a go on the next one i do...And what's the trick you use to keep them in the same location and distance frome the fades for the top and bottom limbs? Kirk
http://www.bigfootbows.com/
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:00 pm

Kirkll wrote:..And what's the trick you use to keep them in the same location and distance frome the fades for the top and bottom limbs? Kirk

Actually, I'm not too scientific about gluing on the tip overlays. :roll: I just line them up with the end of the glass and tape them into the form with the lam stack. They come out close. I've struggled a bit with the wedges sliding, though, and I'm thinking about drilling a hole through them and putting a toothpick in as a pin. Jim
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby 4nolz » Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:14 pm

was it the function of the mounting pad overlays? Cosmetic or is there some other reason?
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Re: bow swap build-along for catamount

Postby jwillis » Sun Aug 17, 2008 7:28 pm

I've always done it that way because it looks good and gives a nice flat surface for mounting the limbs because they can be sanded flat and perpendicular to the riser on the disk sander. Jim
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